Sikkim, Assam and on to Varanasi

I'm sitting in Kolkata airport waiting for our connecting flight to Varanasi, having come from Guwahati, the capital of Assam in the North East early this morning. 

The first couple of days in Assam were fantastic - we headed to the Kaziranga National Park where Asian one horned rhinos live along with elephants and Indian tourists. We took an elephant safari early morning, it was busy with other people doing the same but we got really close to many rhino and had a beautiful experience up close with the elephants after the ride, feeding them grass and looking up their trunks. Amazing animals.

The second day not quite so good. This time it was Dan's turn to be ill, and he managed it quite spectacularly, getting so dehydrated we had to go to the local dispensary and get him on a drip. Some scary moments but he soon improved, particularly when we were taken to the nearest government hospital and we realised if he didn't get doctor's approval to go back to the hotel we'd have to stay there. It was horrendous in there, way worse than the other hospitals I've seen. So so dirty, worse even than toilets you find at bus stations and so on here. Sad and shocking to see these conditions. However he's now improved and we decided to continue with our plan to go to Varanasi, where we'll stay 3 days before heading to Kolkata then home...

In the last few weeks things have stepped up for elections here, lots of political rallies around and much news of corruption, re-polls and violence around polling days. In Darjeeling the most noise was being made about Gorkhaland, the proposed state that people in the area want to form, separate from West Bengal but still India. After spending some time in this area, very different culturally from the rest of West Bengal, this really makes sense. People are only concerned that they will be able to manage and organise this change themselves. Time will tell but Gorkhaland is supported across the area. Sikkim is a separate state, everywhere we saw flags with umbrellas signifying the popular political party there. Industry was all over the place in Sikkim and I heard that they are receiving much more money for tourism also (including for much better roads) creating some tension between the Darjeeling area and Sikkim. 


In Assam, part of the politically volatile North East due to its proximity to Burma, Tibet and also due to the diverse mix of migrants and people there, military presence was visible in the towns and there was a clear feeling of tension. However we were welcomed in Bokakhat (first time not the second time = hospital!) where there was a huge mela (festival) for the god Hanuman's birthday (Hanuman Jayanti) He's the monkey god who represents servants, and was a key figure in the Indian epic Ramayana. The festival was a big garish, bright lighted affair with large plastic moving statues of the gods. We were given tea and sweets and shown around by the organiser and then filmed for local tv!

Binayak Sen, an Indian activist has been released from prison and this has been big news here. However there are still many Orissan activists from the area I was researching in that are in prison, and many more at risk from imprisonment, sentences and discrimination for speaking out for their land and rights. Despite being a 'democratic' country, there is a law here that prohibits sedition (subverting/ speaking out against the country). This theme has come up time and again during my stay here - that merely speaking out or showing an interest in human rights is a crime and something to be fearful of. Until this legislation and attitude are addressed how can India move on?

If you're interested in keeping up with events in Niyamgiri and the latest on the Dongria Kondh and if they are to be labelled as terrorists and treated accordingly, you can follow the Facebook group 'Save Niyamgiri' (http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/group.php?gid=31785088220&v=info) Survival International also keeps fairly up to date with the latest. There's also Surya's fantastic Youtube site http://www.youtube.com/niyamgiri

Let me know if you're interested in getting more involved.

Namaste. See (some of you) in a weekish :)

Tourist time

So here we are in tea land (no longer just me here, Dan joined me just over a week ago :). Darjeeling is a nice town, once you get away from the unbearable diesel fumes of the jeeps, which are the main form of transport on these hill roads. We're about 2000 metres up so it's cold! We've been having coal fires in our hotel room and I've even bought some woolly socks and long johns. Will make the return to UK a little less of a shock I guess. We've ended up staying here longer than expected as the predicted Indian stomach issues have finally reached my body. I'm sitting waiting for some results now so we'll see... We were all ready to go on a 6 day trek yesterday, to the Singalila mountain range from which you can see Everest and other high points of the Himalayas. We may still start this trek tomorrow depending on what the doc says. Feel lucky that we're here where the hospital has a gastroenterology specialist, everyone speaks good English so talking about medications and things is straightforward, and we're in a nice clean hotel room. 

Yesterday was a wipe out, just watching films and clutching my stomach while Dan ran around for me, and most of our time here has been pretty chilled out - drinking tea (of course), taking short walks, visiting the zoo - which actually seemed more humane than some British ones and eating Tibetan food. The culture is very different up here to the parts of India I've been in. Buddhism is blended with Hinduism - great to see two religions tolerating each other and combining gods, worship and celebrations. Below you can see the Buddhist prayer flags at the temple on the highest spot of Darjeeling, where there are Hindu temples alongside monkeys, sadhus and Buddhists reading their thangkas.

People also look very different and speak Nepali and English along with Hindi. Many people here are of Tibetan and Nepali origin, although there are also Indians running restaurants, hotels and shops too. It's amazing to see the weights that people carry - huge gas cylinders, pieces of furniture, all sorts, attached to the head with rope. Sherpas are the original descendants of the Everest area, and are famous for their mountain climbing and for carrying weights such as these. We had a look around the very random but interesting Himalayan Mountaineering Institute's museum, which placed pictures of famous mountaineers from the 1920s next to a model of a Tibetan bride, a very modern looking headtorch and statues of Hindu gods!

The hospital have been really helpful but we were shocked yesterday to see a dog running around and today to see the receptionists chewing on paan while smiling and confirming we'd be able to see the doctor later on. 

Before coming here we spent a few days in Kolkata, enjoying the street food, getting Dan acclimatised to crazy Indian city life (and me after being in the more chilled rural south!) and doing a bit of shopping. We decided to take a trip to the Sunderbans, a mangrove forest and river delta area, for a 3 day tour with the knowledgable, incredibly friendly and hospitable guys from www.tourdesundarbans.com - highly recommended if you're ever in Kolkata and have a couple of nights to spare. The area is known for its Bengal tigers, and they had actually spotted quite a few this year. We werent so lucky but saw about 50 types of birds including massive Caribou storks, monitor lizards, baby crocs and just generally enjoyed sitting back on a boat, chilling in the village and seeing a cock fight and a night market.



Stomach depending we hope to get going on our trek tomorrow, and then onto Sikkim for some monastery and lake visits. It looks like a beautiful place and will be good to see more of this chilled out Buddhist hill country before heading to Assam and Varanasi, which will be far from that!

Onward from Orissa

Here I am in Vizag, arrived last Monday night after a beautiful train journey - my first 'proper' Indian train experience - that is as I imagined it with the windows open and all sorts of people and luggage milling about. In other words I took the general seating where I've been travelling in A/C so far. The landscape leaving Orissa and entering Andhra Pradesh was stunning  - rice paddies, rivers and estuaries, fishermen, huts, houses and farms, and all in late afternoon warm light, with the wind blowing in to the carriage.

 Met a lovely couple who had recently married, and it was obvious they were a 'love marriage' rather than arranged. After chatting for a while I learnt this had caused many of the bride's family and friends to no longer speak to her; she had also been told by her husband to stop her studies as soon as they were married, now taking the life of a housewife cooking for him and his mother, who rarely speaks to her. So this is the sacrifice for a love marriage in many circles here. It has really made me think about how marriage and relationships work back home, where everything's so relaxed for most people. Yes we have rules and yes some people marry for reasons other than love but there's so much freedom. Maybe too much? I'm not saying we should take on the Indian system by any means as they are two such different cultures but I think we can learn a little from each other. many Indians believe that love marriages are dangerous because there's too much emotion and passion; not stable, but I cant imagine it any other way!


Being in India has also made me think a lot about family. Here it's the norm in most places to live with or very close to parents throughout life. Being from a society where most people leave home at 18 and continue to live independently, this seems pretty suffocating! However there are huge benefits, free babysitting, someone different to talk to, food sharing, work sharing... the list goes on. People live much closer to each other here and aren't so worried about having the huge amounts of space that us 'Britishers' seem to thrive on. This has been really nice for me as I'm travelling alone, but now and again I look for a bit of space. These things are true of both tribal and non-tribal Indian society, although of course things are changing in the cities now where Western norms have been influencing society for some time.

Yesterday my friend, her fiance and I got back from a 2 day trip to Aruku Valley - beautiful area. We climbed , a bauxite Gali Konda (windy mountain) which gave me more of an idea of the landscapes rich in plant and wildlife with streams running down and supplying huge areas around them. If these mountains are mined, the water supply for thousands of people will be removed or polluted and nothing will grow. Our guide told us that he and many other villagers have a good understanding of this and came together to resist the mining company Jindal's shiny offerings of jobs and benefits when they came.  The NGO Samata that gave us all the tips and contacts play a big part in educating them and also took a groundbreaking case to court, which used existing legislation to show that mining companies, when defined as non-tribals, do not have the right to these lands. This has halted mining in areas of Andhra Pradesh, but the companies are continuing to find a way, as they are in Orissa, by forming 'mining corporations' which propose that mining is for the national interest, so judgments such as Samata's can be overridden.

Here's a pic of some black pepper, which was growing amongst the coffee and other plants on the way up the mountain. I tasted it while green, pretty potent stuff. Once dry it turns black.



After a severe drenching in the thunderstorm that began at the peak of Gali Konda we descended. I stomped ahead and suddenly stopped, yelping 'cobra'. I am terrified of snakes as some of you know and these guys were really not part of India that I wanted to come into close contact with. It started to raise up and extend its horrible flappy neck so I ran. Fortunately so did it (if snakes can run...)


An action packed day or so followed - village stay, school visit, trip around some stunning and stinky million year old caves, guest at a Hindu/tribal wedding on the Orissan border and leading some discussions at a meeting of local women on womens health.

Here's a video which is mostly for my mum (they do the same dance in India Ma!) 

In a few hours I'm taking the night train to Kolkata, where I'll be finding Dan!

Bye bye Dongria (for now)

So the day after writing the last post, I was called upon by the local police (that word has cropped up a little too much in last few blogs eh) at Living Farms office, and asked to leave that day (Friday). I was told I could call the Supervisor to discuss, which I did, and yes I must leave today otherwise I'd be deported from the area. So not much argument there. Or maybe there could have been but I'm really not India or police savvy enough, or willing to bribe or courageous enough to try. 


Extreme frustration, tears and anger...but also knew that the only train to get back to Koraput, where I'd left some stuff and a friend, meant leaving in the next hour, so I started packing my bag while swearing and calling the friends I'd made there to let them know. One friend really didnt understand and kept saying 'yes good come to my house for dinner at 7.30, my wife wants to cook for you'. I had to shout 'NO I HAVE TO LEAVE TODAY!' - not the best farewell. 


I had only wanted 2 more days there so I could visit the Dongria village once more, tie a few things up and say goodbye to people, as well as spending Holi festival with people at Living Farms, who seemed to be at last able to take a holiday for this occasion. But no, I had one hour to pack, wolf down lunch and write a note goodbye...


The bike journey to the train station was about 20km but due to the road took around an hour. Imagine me with v large backpack on back, smaller one on front bumping around and see if you can imagine the unintentional yet effective yogic effect it was having on my stomach and leg muscles. I could feel it yesterday! 


It was sad to see Niyamgiri hills and think of all the villages I hadnt visited...could I have gone for it more? Should I have never gone to register with the police? Maybe I could just be dropped off somewhere and give it another go... But the warning of deportment had worked on me, particularly as Dan's due here in about a week and it would be pretty shit if I came back to Bristol before he made it here. So me and my Living Farms friend sat at the hot Muniguda station and talked (in hushed tones) about the corruption, secrets and problems with the link up with companies, government and police in India. As soon as I had told him I had to leave, he had said 'Vedanta' (the mining company threatening to mine Niyamgiri, and owner of the aluminium refinery in the region). One word was enough.


Reflecting on the train, I tried to think positively - no I hadnt done fieldwork of the kind I'd imagined, in the villages, for the time I'd hoped, but I've gained a huge amount of experience and knowledge in other ways, and I had spent a decent time in one village, met a wonderful Dongria family and been to see lots of other places too. My whole trip has been fieldwork and I know I'm going to have a lot to write and think about, and hopefully be able to help and spread the word once I'm back home.


Now I'm back in Koraput and have this morning experienced my first Holi festival. It's good fun, people are in a great mood from waking and our neighbour here happens to be pretty big on Holi so by about 8am he'd set up a big drum of water ready to be filled and colour added to. Last night at market we'd bought packets of the coloured dust/dry paint (and two Halloween hats for the girls!) and these were the main theme of the day. The general greeting goes 'Happy Holi' - each person chucking coloured powder on eachothers face, neck and hair and hugging. Nice to see people's inhibitions lowered a bit and atmosphere was great. I got absolutely annihilated with both colour and water for most of the morning, I think maybe a bit extra being the foreigner and it being my first Holi. Pics to follow... Was invited for a big breakfast by a neighbour too, and was taken around on a bike to see what Holi looked like in the rest of Koraput - loud, colourful and happy. Glad I wasnt alone though as people really go for it - can see how would be intimidating in the bigger cities as a woman alone.


Tomorrow to Vizag - I'm staying either with a friend near a beach or in town in a hotel (my first in about 4 weeks!) and hope to be doing a few days volunteering for an organisation called Samata who partly work in the field of education for adivasi children, focusing on relevant forest skills etc. Should be interesting and could fit in with my planned project to bring anthropology to children back in the UK. 


Had a couple of whiskeys at lunch today - first drink in a while. And have been invited for biryani and rum tonight over the road, should be a nice send off.


(Skip to the end) I've managed to write a 4000 word essay again. Hope you aren't asleep, if you skipped to the end then here's a 5 word summary: sad, happy, Holi, breakfast, colours. 


Tatty bye x 
 

The unsurmountable mountains

Being here in Bissamcuttack has not been quite what I expected (not quite sure what that was) but I've certainly gained a lot from the experience. Some of this has been the experience of Indian police, but not all. I have had the chance to spend time in a Dongria village too so some of what I wanted to do has been done but staying in a village and really getting to see and know people and their way of life just isn't possible for outsiders here at the moment. It's hard to know how much of this is genuine concern about Maoists, how much is that too many outsiders have been here doing research and asking questions about the mining companies and the effects on the people and how much is just Indian bureaucracy. A ripe old cocktail of it all I think.

Today's been a beautiful day, spent with the brother in law of a friend here. His family are so warm and friendly, lots of children around the house too - I had dinner there last night. Sometimes language isn't so important I'm starting to realise, so much is non verbal, a smile does a lot. I think I've spent a bit too much time worrying about language and translations and forgotten to enjoy myself at times. Today I sat back and enjoyed the sights of Niyamgiri. It's so beautiful out here, every photo I take just doesn't capture it. 

After a breakfast of iddli (soft rice flour patties) with two different sauces - yum - with the usual questions and stares from people here, we headed to a village where people make jewellery from bronze and other metals. It's a simple process, using a fire in the sand in the middle of the village, but I bought some beautiful stuff from them. Within 10 minutes, a mini market had been set up around my chair, and I think I caused some tensions by buying more from some than others but as usual I had little idea of what was going on so just played stupid tourist and handed out a few apologetic rupees.

Next we went to my friend's 'aunty's' house and had some tea. She was the most amazing warm and vibrant person. We couldnt talk eachother's languages but we communicated anyhow. She gave me a red bindi, which usually signifies marriage although is also fashion, and her friend painted my toes red. Aunty is also unmarried and she's a farmer. Brilliant! There are many female farmers here, as seen at a meeting I went to with Living Farms on Tuesday where it was about half and half men and women. Women around here are strong and inspiring, and have amazing posture due to all the pots and baskets full of vegetables, bricks, and whatever else they carry on their heads, making them look even more strong and graceful. 

After some time spent in Aunty's house we went back to the family home for some lunch and then out again to another village. Here we met a medicine man (disari) and talked for a while, saw the village. I told him about my stomach problems (wheaty business) and he's given me some root which I should grind up and put in water to drink. Will keep you posted on that one.

Now I'm back in Bissamcuttack. When I'm here I feel pretty paranoid as feel police are on my case, I get regular phone calls, and today apparently they came here and to my friend's house to ask where I was. I think they're just checking up on me, nothing too sinister, but it's not great having to deal with these guys each day... Makes me feel like I should just leave, which is exactly the reaction they're after I guess. I knew it would be hard here though, I did get some warnings, so whatever I've managed to do here I should be happy with. A lot of what I write when I get home will be about these access problems and the reasons behind it all.

Being out and about today and enjoying afternoon sun and the views of the mountains it's easy to forget how poor people are that live here. Spending time in the villages you do see poverty but it's different to poverty in the city, which is where it's at its ugliest. Ho hum.

Namoskar Sir

Was what I feebly muttered (namoskar being a respectful greeting in Oriya) as entering Rayagada's Superindendent's office this afternoon, after waiting for him to finish his lunch and afternoon meetings...a few hours chatting, eating and sitting around in a hot jeep. I had gone to local police this morning to let them know I'm here as advised. Quite a nerve wracking experience in itself. How do police manage to make you feel guilty when you've done nothing wrong...some hardcore training they get in this I think. To begin with it looked like all was ok as the second in command was feeling quite chilled out and has a cousin in England. However big boss overheard me and decided I needed to make a trip to Rayagada (where I'd come from yesterday) to speak to Mr SP and get permission. 

There have been so many NGO workers, researchers, journalists etc coming to this area, because the Dongria Kond case got so much international attention, that people are pretty suspicious and wary about outsiders. This isnt usually what is mentioned, however, it's usually reference to Maoists in the area and how it's dangerous for tourists. I'm not convinced this is a real threat, but won't speak too soon. So far I have come to the conclusion that all the talk of Maoists are a cover up for industry to continue its destruction of Orissa and an excuse for Operation Green Hunt, a police 'anti-terrorism' initiative in which many tribal people have been abused and killed.

So I took a motorbike trip to see my friends here and get their advice. Satya is great but everything happens so slowly, and I feel pretty out of control about whats going on a lot of the time so after an hour of thinking I got in a bit of a strop, throwing bananas around and having a little cry in frustration. I really need to learn to adapt to Indian way of life and appreciate the help I'm getting but it's difficult when you just want to get on with things! Particularly as my time is quite limited.

Things improved, we got in a jeep and made the bumpy journey to SP Sir. And I realise that Satya is a good guy and will really be able to help me. He's making plans for us to go out to a Dongria Kond village tomorrow, and he's going to have a go at translating for me. His English isn't great but it would be boring if it was too easy eh. I spend a fair bit of time just nodding because I cant bear to ask him to repeat something he's saying in my native tongue. We'll see!

Something I didn't think about is that for most of the daytime, people will be working out on the fields, despite the heat. So NGO workers and researchers tend to visit villagers early in the morning (the NGO people I'm staying with are out by 5am for morning meetings) til about 10ish, back for a rest and lunch and then back out again 6/7 - 8/9ish. So I hope to be able to make a few overnight stays to take advantage of these times. It's not looking hopeful to stay in one place, but I hope to return to the same village at least a few times over the week-10 days I've been permitted. Obviously this timeframe is a lot less than I'd hoped for, so much of anthropology is about staying in one place and getting to know people rather than going in and asking questions of people that wonder who you are and what you want. I'm hoping that being with Satya will help as he knows people already. 

There's been a lot of frustrations but coming back tonight I sat out looking at the stars and thought how lucky I am to actually be here, and of all the things I've experienced already. And how lucky I am to be able to travel - very few people from India could afford to travel in Europe. 

Until arriving in Bissamcuttack yesterday I was staying in Koraput. Had a good time there learning from Mihir, who has worked on the Dongria Konds too, and going out to the mountainous area around there - up the highest peak, Deomali, where Maoists have destroyed the watchtowers government put up for tourists. There are about 20 different companies applying to mine this mountain but there's a lot of resistance just as in Niyamgiri. Also visited a village with the guys that work for Mihir at FES, beautiful place and interesting to see interactions between the villagers and the NGO, particularly using each others tools! 

That'll do for now. I've got my own room here at Living Farms, and there are 6 other people who work and live here - 4  guys and 2 girls. They live here permanently and share food and everything really. It's a nice set up, simple and friendly and they seem happy to have me here. I suppose I'm getting used to Indian facilities now, being happy with a bucket, jug and pit loo. And fingers crossed still no major Delhi Belly.


Much love xx

'Guest is God'

‘Guest is God’

This is what my lovely host Padmini told me today, I don’t remember the Hindi for it, but it’s certainly true. I’ve been treated so well both here in Koraput and in Bhubaneswar – food has been amazing and plenty of it. Sometimes I feel very British and like I’m in the way but things are just different here – guests are welcome whenever.

I’m getting into the  Indian pace of life, taking time to nap and sit, visiting people for chai and chatting (although most of the time I sit there wondering what the hell’s going on due to my extremely minimal knowledge of both Hindi and Oriya). Oh for a Babel Fish!

This afternoon I went for my first pedicure, with Padmini, at the local beauty parlour. Photos were taken of me, being the second foreigner after a Nepali woman last year. Tomorrow apparently we’re having henna and a ‘hair spa’. My general reaction is to say ‘yes’ and ‘why not’, after all anthropologists are supposed to immerse themselves in the culture…

I had planned to go from Bissamcuttack from Bhubaneswar, which I hope will be the base for my visits and hopefully stays in Dongria Kond villages. However there’s been a hold up with getting permission to stay there, from the local development agency. So I thought I’d come to Koraput, where I had a contact – a couple that wrote a book on the Dongria about 10 years ago. Mihir works for an NGO now (Foundation for Ecological Security) and Padmini co-ordinates the hostels for girls from tribal areas, and ‘self help groups’ for women from tribal areas too. There is one of these hostels just around the corner which I visited yesterday. It’s Christian run and pretty sad to think of the girls being moved away from their villages to be there full time. However who knows the backgrounds of each of these girls and which life is better for them, it’s a complex situation. It was hard to tell on such a quick visit but they seem happy and to be well looked after there. I was placed in a chair in the classroom in front of about 100 expectant faces. Wondering what to do I told them my name, so in turn each girl stood up and told me their name! We then did some singing and dancing. After listening to them chant some Christian and Hindi songs I attempted ‘Blowing in the Wind’ – I’m really glad none of you were there! Mihir and Padmini’s daughter and her friends then performed some Bollywood style routines, then asking me to do some Michael Jackson. I ducked out of this by getting everyone to get into a circle and do a simple dance that I’d learnt from the Dongria girls last week (see video below) I think they thought I was pretty ridiculous, but hey I’m getting used to that being a unmarried English girl travelling alone in rural India!

I’m quite tired of writing what with writing fieldnotes whenever possible, so here’s a list of things that cover some of the last week or so:

Mosquitoes

Birdsong

Smells from drains to perfume to curry and every which way in between!

Colours of the vegetables at the weekly market 

Shaking heads, friendly faces and many stares

The beautiful and cool Juggernaut temple in Koraput

Calls of ‘Amy Didi’ from the children

Rice paddies, farmland and factories seen from the train

Feeling as if I have no idea what I’m doing or what’s going on and the next minute feeling incredibly lucky to be here

Reading and enjoying having all this time to focus on one thing

My new silver toe rings

Smoking Indian ‘biddi’ cigarettes and pretending I’m not getting addicted, whilst also hiding from public view – smoking not really accepted for women in Orissa, but then quite often I think I’m considered somewhere in between a man and woman anyway!

Watching my first mosquito net protected film (District 9 – don’t bother if you haven’t already)

Soaking up as much information as possible each day and trying not to ask questions all the time

Increased toilet time

Ta ta for now, hope all’s well at home xx

I wrote this last night, this morning I have a connection, and some good news. Mihir’s friend from a Dongria village is going to help me get to the area earlier than I expected, so the plan is to head there this Wednesday. So this could be it! I’ve got a feeling that it’s going to be quite a formal set up, with ‘informants’ being provided. However with the relatively short time I have this is really valuable, and who knows what I could build on. Apparently a local schoolteacher is happy to be my translator, perhaps not staying with me all the time but basically I’ve got local people on the case, who know what I’m doing. There’s been so much research done in the area, the effect of this is definitely something to consier. Because the Kondhs used to practice human sacrifice, they have been a popular group for anthropologists to study for many years, since British colonial rule. Quite often it was the colonial administrators or missionaries doing the research in those times too, so this is the kind of act I have to follow! Since then there have been a lot more progressive studies too, but there's still a very traditional style within most Indian anthropology, not going beyond seeing people as 'primitive tribes' - this is how they're officially classified.

So a couple more days here. Tomorrow is UN International Womens Day so Padmini is involved in an event for that which I'll be going to. Still haven't made much of a dent in all the reading Mihir gave me but I'm here to experience not sit reading all day!

Happy Monday and will write soon...