So the day after writing the last post, I was called upon by the local police (that word has cropped up a little too much in last few blogs eh) at Living Farms office, and asked to leave that day (Friday). I was told I could call the Supervisor to discuss, which I did, and yes I must leave today otherwise I'd be deported from the area. So not much argument there. Or maybe there could have been but I'm really not India or police savvy enough, or willing to bribe or courageous enough to try.
Extreme frustration, tears and anger...but also knew that the only train to get back to Koraput, where I'd left some stuff and a friend, meant leaving in the next hour, so I started packing my bag while swearing and calling the friends I'd made there to let them know. One friend really didnt understand and kept saying 'yes good come to my house for dinner at 7.30, my wife wants to cook for you'. I had to shout 'NO I HAVE TO LEAVE TODAY!' - not the best farewell.
I had only wanted 2 more days there so I could visit the Dongria village once more, tie a few things up and say goodbye to people, as well as spending Holi festival with people at Living Farms, who seemed to be at last able to take a holiday for this occasion. But no, I had one hour to pack, wolf down lunch and write a note goodbye...
The bike journey to the train station was about 20km but due to the road took around an hour. Imagine me with v large backpack on back, smaller one on front bumping around and see if you can imagine the unintentional yet effective yogic effect it was having on my stomach and leg muscles. I could feel it yesterday!
It was sad to see Niyamgiri hills and think of all the villages I hadnt visited...could I have gone for it more? Should I have never gone to register with the police? Maybe I could just be dropped off somewhere and give it another go... But the warning of deportment had worked on me, particularly as Dan's due here in about a week and it would be pretty shit if I came back to Bristol before he made it here. So me and my Living Farms friend sat at the hot Muniguda station and talked (in hushed tones) about the corruption, secrets and problems with the link up with companies, government and police in India. As soon as I had told him I had to leave, he had said 'Vedanta' (the mining company threatening to mine Niyamgiri, and owner of the aluminium refinery in the region). One word was enough.
Reflecting on the train, I tried to think positively - no I hadnt done fieldwork of the kind I'd imagined, in the villages, for the time I'd hoped, but I've gained a huge amount of experience and knowledge in other ways, and I had spent a decent time in one village, met a wonderful Dongria family and been to see lots of other places too. My whole trip has been fieldwork and I know I'm going to have a lot to write and think about, and hopefully be able to help and spread the word once I'm back home.
Now I'm back in Koraput and have this morning experienced my first Holi festival. It's good fun, people are in a great mood from waking and our neighbour here happens to be pretty big on Holi so by about 8am he'd set up a big drum of water ready to be filled and colour added to. Last night at market we'd bought packets of the coloured dust/dry paint (and two Halloween hats for the girls!) and these were the main theme of the day. The general greeting goes 'Happy Holi' - each person chucking coloured powder on eachothers face, neck and hair and hugging. Nice to see people's inhibitions lowered a bit and atmosphere was great. I got absolutely annihilated with both colour and water for most of the morning, I think maybe a bit extra being the foreigner and it being my first Holi. Pics to follow... Was invited for a big breakfast by a neighbour too, and was taken around on a bike to see what Holi looked like in the rest of Koraput - loud, colourful and happy. Glad I wasnt alone though as people really go for it - can see how would be intimidating in the bigger cities as a woman alone.
Tomorrow to Vizag - I'm staying either with a friend near a beach or in town in a hotel (my first in about 4 weeks!) and hope to be doing a few days volunteering for an organisation called Samata who partly work in the field of education for adivasi children, focusing on relevant forest skills etc. Should be interesting and could fit in with my planned project to bring anthropology to children back in the UK.
Had a couple of whiskeys at lunch today - first drink in a while. And have been invited for biryani and rum tonight over the road, should be a nice send off.
(Skip to the end) I've managed to write a 4000 word essay again. Hope you aren't asleep, if you skipped to the end then here's a 5 word summary: sad, happy, Holi, breakfast, colours.
Tatty bye x
Extreme frustration, tears and anger...but also knew that the only train to get back to Koraput, where I'd left some stuff and a friend, meant leaving in the next hour, so I started packing my bag while swearing and calling the friends I'd made there to let them know. One friend really didnt understand and kept saying 'yes good come to my house for dinner at 7.30, my wife wants to cook for you'. I had to shout 'NO I HAVE TO LEAVE TODAY!' - not the best farewell.
I had only wanted 2 more days there so I could visit the Dongria village once more, tie a few things up and say goodbye to people, as well as spending Holi festival with people at Living Farms, who seemed to be at last able to take a holiday for this occasion. But no, I had one hour to pack, wolf down lunch and write a note goodbye...
The bike journey to the train station was about 20km but due to the road took around an hour. Imagine me with v large backpack on back, smaller one on front bumping around and see if you can imagine the unintentional yet effective yogic effect it was having on my stomach and leg muscles. I could feel it yesterday!
It was sad to see Niyamgiri hills and think of all the villages I hadnt visited...could I have gone for it more? Should I have never gone to register with the police? Maybe I could just be dropped off somewhere and give it another go... But the warning of deportment had worked on me, particularly as Dan's due here in about a week and it would be pretty shit if I came back to Bristol before he made it here. So me and my Living Farms friend sat at the hot Muniguda station and talked (in hushed tones) about the corruption, secrets and problems with the link up with companies, government and police in India. As soon as I had told him I had to leave, he had said 'Vedanta' (the mining company threatening to mine Niyamgiri, and owner of the aluminium refinery in the region). One word was enough.
Reflecting on the train, I tried to think positively - no I hadnt done fieldwork of the kind I'd imagined, in the villages, for the time I'd hoped, but I've gained a huge amount of experience and knowledge in other ways, and I had spent a decent time in one village, met a wonderful Dongria family and been to see lots of other places too. My whole trip has been fieldwork and I know I'm going to have a lot to write and think about, and hopefully be able to help and spread the word once I'm back home.
Now I'm back in Koraput and have this morning experienced my first Holi festival. It's good fun, people are in a great mood from waking and our neighbour here happens to be pretty big on Holi so by about 8am he'd set up a big drum of water ready to be filled and colour added to. Last night at market we'd bought packets of the coloured dust/dry paint (and two Halloween hats for the girls!) and these were the main theme of the day. The general greeting goes 'Happy Holi' - each person chucking coloured powder on eachothers face, neck and hair and hugging. Nice to see people's inhibitions lowered a bit and atmosphere was great. I got absolutely annihilated with both colour and water for most of the morning, I think maybe a bit extra being the foreigner and it being my first Holi. Pics to follow... Was invited for a big breakfast by a neighbour too, and was taken around on a bike to see what Holi looked like in the rest of Koraput - loud, colourful and happy. Glad I wasnt alone though as people really go for it - can see how would be intimidating in the bigger cities as a woman alone.
Tomorrow to Vizag - I'm staying either with a friend near a beach or in town in a hotel (my first in about 4 weeks!) and hope to be doing a few days volunteering for an organisation called Samata who partly work in the field of education for adivasi children, focusing on relevant forest skills etc. Should be interesting and could fit in with my planned project to bring anthropology to children back in the UK.
Had a couple of whiskeys at lunch today - first drink in a while. And have been invited for biryani and rum tonight over the road, should be a nice send off.
(Skip to the end) I've managed to write a 4000 word essay again. Hope you aren't asleep, if you skipped to the end then here's a 5 word summary: sad, happy, Holi, breakfast, colours.
Tatty bye x
Hi Amy: Although I was sad to note that you had to leave your research location, I am glad you went there and had a great experience of Dongria Kond life (even if it was for a short duration). I hope this outcome will not deter you from collecting other information that relates to Adivasis in this area. Hope your last few days before you and Dan travel are pleasant and enjoyable. All the best to you.
ReplyDeleteRohit