Was what I feebly muttered (namoskar being a respectful greeting in Oriya) as entering Rayagada's Superindendent's office this afternoon, after waiting for him to finish his lunch and afternoon meetings...a few hours chatting, eating and sitting around in a hot jeep. I had gone to local police this morning to let them know I'm here as advised. Quite a nerve wracking experience in itself. How do police manage to make you feel guilty when you've done nothing wrong...some hardcore training they get in this I think. To begin with it looked like all was ok as the second in command was feeling quite chilled out and has a cousin in England. However big boss overheard me and decided I needed to make a trip to Rayagada (where I'd come from yesterday) to speak to Mr SP and get permission.
There have been so many NGO workers, researchers, journalists etc coming to this area, because the Dongria Kond case got so much international attention, that people are pretty suspicious and wary about outsiders. This isnt usually what is mentioned, however, it's usually reference to Maoists in the area and how it's dangerous for tourists. I'm not convinced this is a real threat, but won't speak too soon. So far I have come to the conclusion that all the talk of Maoists are a cover up for industry to continue its destruction of Orissa and an excuse for Operation Green Hunt, a police 'anti-terrorism' initiative in which many tribal people have been abused and killed.
So I took a motorbike trip to see my friends here and get their advice. Satya is great but everything happens so slowly, and I feel pretty out of control about whats going on a lot of the time so after an hour of thinking I got in a bit of a strop, throwing bananas around and having a little cry in frustration. I really need to learn to adapt to Indian way of life and appreciate the help I'm getting but it's difficult when you just want to get on with things! Particularly as my time is quite limited.
Things improved, we got in a jeep and made the bumpy journey to SP Sir. And I realise that Satya is a good guy and will really be able to help me. He's making plans for us to go out to a Dongria Kond village tomorrow, and he's going to have a go at translating for me. His English isn't great but it would be boring if it was too easy eh. I spend a fair bit of time just nodding because I cant bear to ask him to repeat something he's saying in my native tongue. We'll see!
Something I didn't think about is that for most of the daytime, people will be working out on the fields, despite the heat. So NGO workers and researchers tend to visit villagers early in the morning (the NGO people I'm staying with are out by 5am for morning meetings) til about 10ish, back for a rest and lunch and then back out again 6/7 - 8/9ish. So I hope to be able to make a few overnight stays to take advantage of these times. It's not looking hopeful to stay in one place, but I hope to return to the same village at least a few times over the week-10 days I've been permitted. Obviously this timeframe is a lot less than I'd hoped for, so much of anthropology is about staying in one place and getting to know people rather than going in and asking questions of people that wonder who you are and what you want. I'm hoping that being with Satya will help as he knows people already.
There's been a lot of frustrations but coming back tonight I sat out looking at the stars and thought how lucky I am to actually be here, and of all the things I've experienced already. And how lucky I am to be able to travel - very few people from India could afford to travel in Europe.
Until arriving in Bissamcuttack yesterday I was staying in Koraput. Had a good time there learning from Mihir, who has worked on the Dongria Konds too, and going out to the mountainous area around there - up the highest peak, Deomali, where Maoists have destroyed the watchtowers government put up for tourists. There are about 20 different companies applying to mine this mountain but there's a lot of resistance just as in Niyamgiri. Also visited a village with the guys that work for Mihir at FES, beautiful place and interesting to see interactions between the villagers and the NGO, particularly using each others tools!
That'll do for now. I've got my own room here at Living Farms, and there are 6 other people who work and live here - 4 guys and 2 girls. They live here permanently and share food and everything really. It's a nice set up, simple and friendly and they seem happy to have me here. I suppose I'm getting used to Indian facilities now, being happy with a bucket, jug and pit loo. And fingers crossed still no major Delhi Belly.
Much love xx
There have been so many NGO workers, researchers, journalists etc coming to this area, because the Dongria Kond case got so much international attention, that people are pretty suspicious and wary about outsiders. This isnt usually what is mentioned, however, it's usually reference to Maoists in the area and how it's dangerous for tourists. I'm not convinced this is a real threat, but won't speak too soon. So far I have come to the conclusion that all the talk of Maoists are a cover up for industry to continue its destruction of Orissa and an excuse for Operation Green Hunt, a police 'anti-terrorism' initiative in which many tribal people have been abused and killed.
So I took a motorbike trip to see my friends here and get their advice. Satya is great but everything happens so slowly, and I feel pretty out of control about whats going on a lot of the time so after an hour of thinking I got in a bit of a strop, throwing bananas around and having a little cry in frustration. I really need to learn to adapt to Indian way of life and appreciate the help I'm getting but it's difficult when you just want to get on with things! Particularly as my time is quite limited.
Things improved, we got in a jeep and made the bumpy journey to SP Sir. And I realise that Satya is a good guy and will really be able to help me. He's making plans for us to go out to a Dongria Kond village tomorrow, and he's going to have a go at translating for me. His English isn't great but it would be boring if it was too easy eh. I spend a fair bit of time just nodding because I cant bear to ask him to repeat something he's saying in my native tongue. We'll see!
Something I didn't think about is that for most of the daytime, people will be working out on the fields, despite the heat. So NGO workers and researchers tend to visit villagers early in the morning (the NGO people I'm staying with are out by 5am for morning meetings) til about 10ish, back for a rest and lunch and then back out again 6/7 - 8/9ish. So I hope to be able to make a few overnight stays to take advantage of these times. It's not looking hopeful to stay in one place, but I hope to return to the same village at least a few times over the week-10 days I've been permitted. Obviously this timeframe is a lot less than I'd hoped for, so much of anthropology is about staying in one place and getting to know people rather than going in and asking questions of people that wonder who you are and what you want. I'm hoping that being with Satya will help as he knows people already.
There's been a lot of frustrations but coming back tonight I sat out looking at the stars and thought how lucky I am to actually be here, and of all the things I've experienced already. And how lucky I am to be able to travel - very few people from India could afford to travel in Europe.
Until arriving in Bissamcuttack yesterday I was staying in Koraput. Had a good time there learning from Mihir, who has worked on the Dongria Konds too, and going out to the mountainous area around there - up the highest peak, Deomali, where Maoists have destroyed the watchtowers government put up for tourists. There are about 20 different companies applying to mine this mountain but there's a lot of resistance just as in Niyamgiri. Also visited a village with the guys that work for Mihir at FES, beautiful place and interesting to see interactions between the villagers and the NGO, particularly using each others tools!
That'll do for now. I've got my own room here at Living Farms, and there are 6 other people who work and live here - 4 guys and 2 girls. They live here permanently and share food and everything really. It's a nice set up, simple and friendly and they seem happy to have me here. I suppose I'm getting used to Indian facilities now, being happy with a bucket, jug and pit loo. And fingers crossed still no major Delhi Belly.
Much love xx
Hi Amy
ReplyDeleteFrom what you say here, I was not sure if you did manage to have a meeting with the SP. I hope you have been able to get some more information about what is going on in Dongria from people you have met outside the area. This may of course include friends you have made on the way. The fact that you were asked by the Police to leave the area seems quite amazing, perhaps not so surprising. Your writing clearly shows that you are fully involved in what you are doing and your adaptation to Indian conditions is admirable. Well done, Amy. Best wishes to you.